You gaze down through the open window at the sparkling Ionia sea resplendent in the late summer sun. Your taxi weaves itself dexterously down the narrow mountain road from Vrachionas, the highest point on the Greek island of Zakynthos. The sun twinkles and a hundred shades of azure bounce back from the gently lapping waves. High above a Cory’s Shearwater banks and weaves barely beating it’s long brown wings as it scans the turquoise waters for an afternoon snack. It…